- Contax g2 lenses cleaned lubricated adjusted pro#
- Contax g2 lenses cleaned lubricated adjusted free#
If you are going to use Keiv's or Contax II(I) then you are forced to maintain yourself or buy a replacement when broke, as the replacement cost is frequently less than a pro repair + postage, unless there is sentimental valus in the camera. This offer includes lens, front and rear caps, 80mm cine lens hood with 77mm filter thread, 2x 0. Lens was cleaned, adjusted and re-lubricated.
Contax g2 lenses cleaned lubricated adjusted free#
If the camera has been used as a pro camera in the FSU this is possible. Glass is in good condition, free of fungus, but have very minor cleaning marks, which will not affect the final image. If you are unlucky the bush that the fork shaft rides on can be worn and this may compromise the wind on gears. Normally this clutch is way to tight and will pull flm past the teeth on the sprocket shaft increasig the spacing and tearing the film You can strip out the 'slipping clutch' withot liftng the top plate, by undoing the coaxial screw, cleaning the fibre washers that act as the clutch, and replacing, in the same sequence. If it is loose counter hold the forks with padded pliers while you nip it up. It has quite a large head but it is not an auto wheen lug not, it should be tight but not torqued up. coaxial with) the forks that drive the film take up spool is not loose. I'd check that the screw in the centre (i.e. Don, I am so glad to hear that you love the pictures you can get with your old Kiev It's a superb camera, I've got one by myself, with hand-picked set of lenses (35, 50, 80, 135) - it's a real gem.
That's all not too difficult - I've done it for many many times, believe me You'll see if the frames are still overlapping, or you're done. When you're done, take a blank spool of any film, remove the lens, set the shutter on B, and draw each frame's outlines through the bayonet opening with the pencil, while the shutter is open. If that doesn't help, and the tension is too low, the unit should be disassembled, cleaned, NOT lubricated, and the spring should be tightened by either placing more washers over the spring, or by a careful pulling (can't recommend it, the spring is very strong). At first, it's better not to disassemble the fork unit, but to try tightening the screw - again, it shouldn't be overtightened, because if it's not meshed with the shaft, it's easy to damage the both. The tension of the spring is a crucial parameter - it should be not too tight nor too loose, and if it's loose the frames overlap. It's not very easy to do because of the spring, but it's still quite feasible without camera's top disassembling. The profiled washer should be meshed against the profiled end of the shaft, that's essential to get it all working well. The assembly of this unit should be as following: a driving shaft with profiled end (comes from the camera, rotates when you cock the shutter), a tight tension spring put on this shaft, a washer (or couple of them) over the spring, a fork itself, a washer over it, a profiled (!!) washer, a screw. The overlapping issue indicates that the tensioning spring inside the fork is too weak, or the screw in it is undone. The breakage of taking spool driving fork is the most frequent disease of the Kievs, as I know.
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